lundi 13 octobre 2014

"Exquisite Fleurie" par Bob Millman de Grapes the wine company - New York

I simply adore first rate Cru Beaujolais. I cannot think of another red wine that matches a top Morgon or Fleurie for charm, beauty, drinkability and food adaptability. 

For the past decade, the Cru that has attracted the most attention is Morgon—especially those made from the Cote de Py. Perhaps it is the longevity and seriousness of the best Morgons that have grabbed the attention of American wine lovers. 

But for elegance and sheer sensual beauty nothing can quite equal a first rate Fleurie. The very name suggests delight. All of this is a prelude to a discovery I made recently of the wines of dedicated woman vigneron in Fleurie named Anne-Sophie Dubois. It was love at first sip. 

If I wanted to illustrate what makes Fleurie the Queen of Beaujolais I would poor someone a glass of Anne-Sophie’s wine.It turns out that she started her vineyard work in Volnay. That makes a lot of sense. One might call Fleurie the Volnay of Beaujolais. Ms. Dubois recently purchased 7 acres of old vines in Fleurie. She manages her vineyards and makes her wines in a Burgundian manner—including a cold soak of the unfermented grapes before crushing them. The wines are aged in 4-7 year old barrels for 13 months. Of course, no filtering and she utilizes strict organic farming methods. She bottles 2 Fleuries: One she calls l’Alchemiste, the other Clepsydre, which refers to a water clock. This is an acknowledgment of just how essential time is to wine. And this is the wine I tasted. 

I have rarely tasted a wine that so precisely and successfully captured the spirit of the site from which it was made. Fluid on the palate with delicate yet persistent nuances of red berries and sweet young tobacco and a floral note that was all but irresistible. The lively acid underpinning gives the wine a gentle vitality which is essential in Beaujolais. Permit me to quote from Ms. Dubois’ rather poetic website: “The wines I make are akin to Burgundy, in the manner of Henri Jayer, while keeping the objective of enhancing the delicacy, feminitiy and velvet of Fleurie.” The 2011 Clepsydre lives up to those words in every respect. This is truly a beautiful wine at a wonderfully affordable price. 

Below is Neal Martin’s perceptive review, as well as retailer, Wine Library’s. 2011 Anne-Sophie Dubois Fleurie “Clepsydre”
WA 91, WL 94+

“The 2011 Fleurie Clepsydre (no, I cannot pronounce it either) is influenced more by Burgundian techniques than Beaujolais, with the grapes de-stemmed and undergoing a three-week skin maceration. It has an attractive, natural bouquet with briary, blackberry and wild strawberry scents interlaced with minerals. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins, good acidity and harmony. This flows nicely across the mouth – refined and elegant, a classy Fleurie to savor”  Neal Martin

“This is easily one of the most exciting Beaujolais I've ever had. This wine is remarkably polished, deep and rich, with tremendous structure to support it's weight and depth. It opens up and shows the great dark fruit and floral character of Fleurie. This will easily last for a decade or more. Great replacement for village level Burgundy.”-Ian Dorin 

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